Check Engine light comes up ON dash and remains fo few hours.Then Again goes OFF.
Driving is fine and no problem is noticed while driving or starting/ stopping .
When the Check Engine light comes on, this is indication that vehicles computer has detected problem with one of the monitored systems. Unfortunately, there are literally 100's of parts and sensors monitored in various systems, and to take a "guess" as to which part/sensor in which system is faulty, is virtually impossible. However, if you are not experiencing any drivability issues such as skipping, stalling, shifting problems, etc, then more than likely, the problem is going to lie in the EVAP (emissions) system. Very commonly, this could be a faulty, loose or missing fuel cap or even putting fuel in while the vehicle is running. Check the cap for any cracks in the rubber o-ring on the underside. Check the fuel filler neck for any signs of chips or debris. Check under the vehicle, around the area of the fuel tank and the EVAP canister looking for any vacuum lines that have dry-rot cracks, holes or loose/missing connections.
This all basic possibilities needs to be properly inspected.
BUT,
If all these checks out ok, then the best thing to do at this point is to have the "p-codes" read from the on-board computer. These p-codes are what is used as a "starting point" for the diagnosis and will tell which part/sensor in which system has the fault. There isn't a Mechanic on the planet that can tell you what is wrong with the vehicle just by "looking" at the Engine Light. Every single Mechanic's first course of action WILL be to obtain the p-codes. Once you get these p-codes you can more accurately and efficiently diagnose the problem and then make the repair. You can have these p-codes read FREE (except in California) at any local "big chain" part store (ie. AutoZone, PepBoys, Advanced, etc). If you still need help after retrieving the codes, you can bring them here, and any of our Techs can walk you through the diagnostic procedure, and then even help you make the repair if you feel confident enough to try.
To get the problem rectified you can also take it your dealer
BUT,as for taking it to the Dealer- most local shops can repair emissions problems these days (if thats what it turns out to be. Very commonly this can also be an A/F Sensor (aka Oxygen Sensor) problem!). Local shops will always save you money on parts and labor.
But please take care you get original and branded parts.Its not necessary that parts are from dealer,but parts should be branded.Because local aftermarket parts are very cheap cost wise but there performance is also very poor.They dont last long and in many cases the cars computer system even dont detect this new aftermarket parts.
So get your part wisely.Dont just run to save the repair/replace cost.
This details will help.
Thanks.
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Driving is fine and no problem is noticed while driving or starting/ stopping .
When the Check Engine light comes on, this is indication that vehicles computer has detected problem with one of the monitored systems. Unfortunately, there are literally 100's of parts and sensors monitored in various systems, and to take a "guess" as to which part/sensor in which system is faulty, is virtually impossible. However, if you are not experiencing any drivability issues such as skipping, stalling, shifting problems, etc, then more than likely, the problem is going to lie in the EVAP (emissions) system. Very commonly, this could be a faulty, loose or missing fuel cap or even putting fuel in while the vehicle is running. Check the cap for any cracks in the rubber o-ring on the underside. Check the fuel filler neck for any signs of chips or debris. Check under the vehicle, around the area of the fuel tank and the EVAP canister looking for any vacuum lines that have dry-rot cracks, holes or loose/missing connections.
This all basic possibilities needs to be properly inspected.
BUT,
If all these checks out ok, then the best thing to do at this point is to have the "p-codes" read from the on-board computer. These p-codes are what is used as a "starting point" for the diagnosis and will tell which part/sensor in which system has the fault. There isn't a Mechanic on the planet that can tell you what is wrong with the vehicle just by "looking" at the Engine Light. Every single Mechanic's first course of action WILL be to obtain the p-codes. Once you get these p-codes you can more accurately and efficiently diagnose the problem and then make the repair. You can have these p-codes read FREE (except in California) at any local "big chain" part store (ie. AutoZone, PepBoys, Advanced, etc). If you still need help after retrieving the codes, you can bring them here, and any of our Techs can walk you through the diagnostic procedure, and then even help you make the repair if you feel confident enough to try.
To get the problem rectified you can also take it your dealer
BUT,as for taking it to the Dealer- most local shops can repair emissions problems these days (if thats what it turns out to be. Very commonly this can also be an A/F Sensor (aka Oxygen Sensor) problem!). Local shops will always save you money on parts and labor.
But please take care you get original and branded parts.Its not necessary that parts are from dealer,but parts should be branded.Because local aftermarket parts are very cheap cost wise but there performance is also very poor.They dont last long and in many cases the cars computer system even dont detect this new aftermarket parts.
So get your part wisely.Dont just run to save the repair/replace cost.
This details will help.
Thanks.
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