Moto GuzziV7 Sport, 750 S, 750 S3, 850 T, 850-T3, 850-T3 California, V1000 I-Convert, V1000 G5, 1000 SP, Le Mans, Le Mans II, Le Mans CX100
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Converter cover disassembly
The transmission is really two separate units that are bolted together and interface with one another through dry clutch plates. The “converter cover” is the front unit, and it is bolted to the rear “gear box” unit. I began disassembly by removing the converter cover from the 2 speed gear box.
Start by removing the bronze bushing from the shaft so it won't fall out later.
It just slides out. During reassembly the only thing that matters is that the notches face the front.
Remove the 6 bolts that secure that converter cover to the 2 speed gearbox. The converter cover will then separate from the 2 speed gearbox.
This is the rear side of the converter cover. The splined piece is the clutch input hub that interfaces with the clutch plates.
In order to remove the clutch input hub assembly from the convert cover, you need to remove 5 bolts. Rotate the clutch input hub until the bolts are visible through the access holes.
Remove each of the 5 bolts and withdraw the assembly. The complete clutch input hub assembly should slide right out of the converter cover.
Here is the seal (MG# 90404563) and several of the passages that must be aligned with the corresponding passages in the clutch input hub assembly during reassembly.
Drive the seal out (MG# 90404563).
Here is how the seal (MG# 90404563) must be positioned during assembly.
A view of the rear side of the converter cover.
Note the use of multiple aluminum crush washers to prevent the acorn nuts from bottoming out before making a tight seal.
A closer view of the fittings for the oil lines. Notice the bottom one is a smaller diameter than the top one. I removed both of these fittings. That about covers the removal and disassembly of the converter cover.
Clutch input hub disassembly
With the clutch input hub removed from the converter cover, we can disassemble it.
Now we turn our attention to disassembling the clutch input hub. Start by removing this o-ring (MG# 90706600).
Note the holes that must align with the passageways in the converter cover during assembly. You can see that I've already started to separate the two halves that were held together by the 5 bolts.
Here is another hole that must be aligned with the passageways in the converter cover during assembly.
Completely separate the two halves that were held together by the 5 bolts. I was able to accomplish this using small screwdrivers and careful prying.
Remove the o-ring (MG# 90706473) from the front half.
This hole in the front half is supposed to be plugged (the other hole on the opposite side should not be plugged).
Remove the o-ring (MG# 90706158) from the shaft.
Remove the snap ring (MG# 90271020) from the shaft. This snap ring keeps the bearing in place.
Pull the bearing (MG# 92201220) from the shaft. If I remember correctly, I needed to use a press (or puller) to pull up on the bottom half (with the 5 bolt holes). This is necessary because the bearing sits inside of it and you can't get a grip on the bottom of the bearing. Just be careful not to bend the bottom half when you use your press (or puller).
Remove the bearing (MG# 92201220).
Remove the seal (MG# 90402535), note the direction that it must be installed. I'm certain I removed the seal after I'd removed the plate. I just took the picture here to be clear about assembly order, etc.
Remove the bottom plate.
Clutch basket disassembly
The clutch basket needs to be removed before we can disassemble the gear box.
With the converter cover removed and the clutch input hub disassembled, I turned my attention to the 2 speed gearbox. Here is the stack of clutch plates installed.
Here is the snap ring that must be removed. In order to do that, we must first take the pressure off of the clutch and intermediate plates.
I used the clutch throw out bearing adjustment nut at the rear of the transmission to take the pressure off of the clutch and intermediate plates.
First, remove the smaller jam nut from the back of the transmission.
I also removed the adjustment nut and the lever so I could clean and lubricate the threads. Also, I wanted to remove the rubber boot from the lever so it would be easier to tighten the adjustment nut.
I put the lever back on with the adjustment nut. I then tightened the adjustment nut to compress the clutch springs and take the pressure off of the clutch plates. Go slow here. You may need to completely remove the adjustment nut, then clean and lubricate the threads so that you don't destroy the threads in the process.
With the large snap ring removed, you can withdraw all of the clutch and intermediate plates.
Here is the stack of clutch and intermediate plates. I kept them in the original order throughout cleaning and reassembly. It shouldn't matter, but when reusing used parts I like to error on the side of same-ness.
Remove the adjustment nut.
And withdraw the clutch throw out bearing pull rod from the front of the gearbox.
Another view of the pull rod being removed.
The throw out bearing (MG# 92204217) came out easily.
Another view of the throw out bearing (MG# 92204217) being removed.
This is the special insert that fits inside the throw out bearing (MG# 92204217).
Remove the pressure plate. Note the 6 springs and the thin washers. The washers fit within the recesses of the pressure plate, not in the basket.
Another view of the pressure plate with thin washers and springs.
The lip of the nut will have been peened into the slot in the shaft. Pry the peened portion away from the shaft.
And remove the nut.
Remove the basket. Mine came off pretty easily without much fuss.
A seal runs on this surface, be sure to clean and dress it properly.
With the clutch basket removed, you can now see the front of the gearbox and the seal.
Note the seal (MG# 90402838).
And the o-ring (not shown in the parts book). Before we remove the seal or o-ring, however, lets disassemble the gear box.
Gear box disassembly
With the clutch basket removed from the gear box, we can now disassemble the gear box.
A view of the rear of the transmission.
Here is the shift arm and how it was originally positioned.
We'll start disassembling the gear box by removing the speedometer drive gear.
Remove the gear drive.
And use a small magnet to withdraw the hardened steel washer down inside that hole.
Set the transmission up on end. Remove the spring loaded plug that holds gear selector pawl in place.
Remove the crush washer.
Withdraw the spring and selector pawl.
Remove the drain plug along with its crush washer.
Remove all of the bolts that secure the cover to the case.
Here is the snap ring on the output shaft.
Remove the snap ring (this could also be removed after the cover is removed).
Remove the cover from the case.
The inside of the cover.
The gears inside the transmission.
A closer view.
Remove the thrust/shimming washers.
There were two placed to the rear of the bearing.
Then remove the thrust bearing.
There was a single thrust/shimming washer in front of the bearing.
The shift fork assembly is secured to the splined shaft via a pinch bolt.
Note the alignment of the external shift arm with the nub on the shift fork assembly.
Remove the pinch bolt.
Withdraw the external shift arm/splined shaft.
Note the o-ring (MG# 90706108).
Remove the input shaft.
The input shaft and the o-ring that seals the input shaft and the inner race of the bearing. Note that the o-ring is fit outside of the gearbox, in between the clutch basket and the bearing.
The bearing retainer is secured by three bolts.
Remove the three bolts and the bearing retainer.
This is the puller arrangement I devised to get the rear bearing and the spacer that the seal runs on off of the output shaft. I chose to pull them off as a unit because (a) the spacer that the seal runs on was stuck in place and (b) I did not want to risk damaging the sealing surface of the spacer that the seal runs on. The clamp was very useful to keep the fingers of the puller lodged under the bearing.
Another view of the puller arrangement.
And a close up view of the puller arrangement.
Here is the spacer that the seal runs on. I was able to clean this up nicely.
The o-ring (MG# 90706222) remained on the shaft when I pulled the bearing off.
Here is where the o-ring (MG# 90706222) fits: within the front recess of the spacer that the seal runs on.
Remove the shimming washer.
Remove the normal speed gear.
Now the main shaft is easily removed from the front bearing.
Remove the shift sleeve. Note which side face rearward and which side faced frontward. The shift sleeve can be reversed to double the life of the engagement dogs.
Note how one side of the engagement dogs is rounded. This is what happens when convert transmissions are shifted at speed. They should always be shifted when the machine is not in motion.
A view of the other side of the shift sleeve.
The output shaft was pretty well stuck in the front bearing and there is no good way to “pry” it out. So, I welded up a small adapter for my slide hammer so that I could pull the shaft out. The end of the shaft is already threaded for 8 mm × 1.25 mm threads, so all I needed to do was weld a bolt onto the end of an adapter. This worked a treat!
Another view of the puller I used to withdraw the output shaft from the bearing.
Another view of the puller I used to withdraw the output shaft from the bearing.
Another view of the puller I used to withdraw the output shaft from the bearing.
The output shaft (layshaft).
The low speed gear remained in the box.
Here is the low speed gear back in place on the output shaft (layshaft). Note the shimming washer is still on top of the bearing.
The shimming washer is now in place on the output shaft (layshaft).
Use a seal puller to remove the seal from the case. Be careful not to gouge the case or else you'll have trouble getting the next seal installed and you may have trouble with it sealing properly.
Here is the removed seal. The lip of the seal presses against the clutch basket.
Press out the front bearing for the input shaft.
Here is the blind hole bearing puller I used to remove the bearings from the case.
Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.
Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.
Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.
Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.
Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.
Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.
Removing the bolt from the case. I think the purpose of this bolt was to prevent the shift shaft from rotating too far. I can't recall for sure now, though.
Here is the bolt removed.
Use a seal puller to remove the output shaft (layshaft) seal from the rear cover.
Here is the removed seal.
Use a small driver to drive out the seal from the rear cover. The bearing will come with it. Take care so as to not destroy the bearing (I do not use a blind hole bearing puller on these bearings unless I have to). Use the largest size drive you can fit.
Here is the seal and bearing removed.
Here is the vent. I never did remove this from the case. Just cleaned it thoroughly in place along with the rest of the case.
Output (layshaft) seal
The physical dimensions of this single lip seal (MG# 90403547) are as follows:
- Inside diameter: 35 mm
- Outside diameter: 47 mm
- Width: 7 mm
Input (clutch) shaft seal - rear
The physical dimensions of this single lip seal (MG# 90401630) are as follows:
- Inside diameter: 16 mm
- Outside diameter: 30 mm
- Width: 7/6.5 mm
Input (clutch) shaft seal - front (small, fits into transmission case)
The physical dimensions of this single lip seal (MG# 90402838) are as follows:
- Inside diameter: 28 mm
- Outside diameter: 38 mm
- Width: 7 mm
Input (clutch) shaft seal - front (large, fits into clutch case)
The physical dimensions of this single lip seal (MG# 90404563) are as follows:
- Inside diameter: 45 mm
- Outside diameter: 60 mm
- Width: 7 mm
Clutch area seal
The physical dimensions of this single lip seal (MG# 90402535) are as follows:
- Inside diameter: 25 mm
- Outside diameter: 35 mm
- Width: 7 mm
Clutch assembly bearing
The physical dimensions of the bearing used in the clutch assembly (MG# 92201220) is as follows:
- Inside diameter: 20 mm
- Outside diameter: 47 mm
- Width: 14 mm
IF you require work shop manual for your Moto Guzzi 850 T3, click the link below:---
That's a good guide you put up. You'll have to excuse me for not typing more but I'm using an iPad and I absolutely hate it. My '78 T3 needs clutch work as well and this guide will help me do it. I've just bought the clutch parts and will start disassembly in the coming weeks.
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