P0360 error on 1997 Ford Thunderbird LX ?

This error is mostly caused by :----

Potential causes of a P0360 code include:

• Short to voltage or ground on COP driver circuit
• Open on COP driver circuit
• Loose connection at coil or broken connector locks
• Bad Coil (COP)
• Faulty Powertrain Control Module.

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The troubleshooting solutions you can try is :---]

Is the engine misfiring presently? If not, the problem is likely intermittent. Try wiggle testing the wiring at the #10 coil and along the wiring harness to the PCM. If manipulating the wiring causes the misfire to surface, repair the wiring problem. Check for poor connection at the coil connector. Verify the harness isn't misrouted or chafing on anything. Repair as necessary

If the engine is misfiring presently, stop the engine and disconnect the #10 coil wiring connector. Then start the engine and check for a driver signal to the #10 coil. Using a scope will give you a visual pattern to observe, but since most people don't have access to one there's an easier way. Use a Voltmeter in AC Hertz scale and see if there's a Hz reading of between 5 and 20 or so that indicates the driver is working. If there is a Hertz signal, then replace the #10 ignition coil. It's likely bad. If you don't detect any frequency signal from the PCM on the ignition coil driver circuit indicating the PCM is grounding/ungrounding the circuit (or there is no visible pattern on the scope if you have one) then leave the coil disconnected and check for DC voltage on the driver circuit at the ignition coil connector. If there is any significant voltage on that wire then there is a short to voltage somewhere. Find the short and repair it.

If there is no voltage on the driver circuit, then turn the ignition off. Disconnect the PCM connector and check the continuity of the driver between the PCM and the coil. If there is no continuity repair the open or short to ground in the circuit. If continuity is present, then check for resistance between ground and the ignition coil connector. There should be infinite resistance. If there isn't, repair the short to ground in the coil driver circuit

NOTE: If the ignition coil driver signal wire is not open or shorted to voltage or ground and there is no trigger signal to the coil then suspect a faulty PCM coil driver. Also keep in mind that if the PCM driver is at fault, there may be a wiring problem that caused the PCM failure. It's a good idea to do the above check after PCM replacement to verify there won't be a repeat failure. If you find that the engine isn't misfiring, the coil is being triggered properly but P0360 is continually being reset, there is the possibility that the PCM coil monitoring system may be faulty.

How to change front fork seals on single disc ducati monster

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Doing a fork seal replacement can be very messy. It’s a good idea to start off with a clean work area: Smokes are optional. This is sort of a revised version, so I'm going to take it from after the tire is off. That should suffice.

Once you have removed the tire, set it in a safe place keeping in mind all the collars, washer, axle and bolt placement.
Take out all bolts holding the fender on the forks as well as any bolts holding brake line. Remove the Fender:

Loosen all the pinch bolts holding the forks. There are two on the lower section of the tree, one on top and one holding the clip-ons.


The forks should now slide out pretty easily. If you have problems, loosen the pinch bolts more on the clamps and tap lightly on the BOTTOM of the fork with a dead blow hammer. This will free up the fork from its stuck position.
Once the Forks are out, identify the bolt from the bottom of the fork. If you have not already removed the pinch bolts, like I told you to, do that now. Once the pinch bolts are out, you can put a hex on the bolt. It is MUCH better to have a hex socket as opposed to an allen key. Much better leverage. I’ve found that using an impact wrench can save you A LOT of trouble on this. You need to be careful NOT to use a hex that is ‘ball’ rounded,. The round hex can strip the hell out of the bolt. I know from experience.

Once the bolt is out, drain all the fluid out. This can get messy. Once the fluid is out, you can remove the dust seal using a small screwdriver.

Then remove the Fork seal retaining ring. Use a small screwdriver to get the ring out of its slot. It will then easily slide up and out.

Once the ring is out, you can now remove the Fork Seal. I’ve found that the easiest way is to grab the shiny part (for all intensive purposes) and the bottom part and pull them apart. The shim below will pull the seal out. When you get it out, make SURE that you notice the order of things. Lay them on a clean towel in the order that they come off and the side up or down that they come off. Here’s the order:
Dust cap, Fork seal retainer, Fork Seal, Washer, Bushing.

Once you get them out, make sure that the bushings don’t get lost. This is on the end of the shiny parts inners. These little bastards have a way of getting lost. Make SURE that you have each accounted for. A good way to keep them in place is with a coating of grease:

This is the best opportunity to clean these dingy damn things, so do it now!

The forks go back together in the reverse order. If you don’t have fork seal drivers, you can use PVC pipe. With the RC51 (as with most modern sportbikes) the forks are upside down, so you need to cut the PVC in half to use them. Make sure that you replenish the oil in your tubes before reassembly. The ending product is VERY good looking:


The last thing: When you put your brake calipers back on, there are two VERY IMPORTANT THINGS THAT YOU MUST DO!!!
1: Put locktight on the bolts holding the calipers to the forks.
2. More often than not, you need to expand your brake pads to get the calipers back on to the Discs. This creates a gap obviously, so make sure you pump your brakes until pressure builds back up. Or you could be in for a nasty surprise the first time that you go for a test ride. (I know this from experience)

where to add oil on 2007 Mercedes-Benz SLK350?

Tools Required : 8mm & 13mm sockets + wrench. Mercedes Oil Filter removal tool (19$ ebay)



Step1: Drive the Car around to warm up the oil , then drive up the Rhino Ramps, (or jack the car up, whatever is your preference)



Step2: Pop the hood and remove the Oil-Fillup Cap and the Oil Filter. This is optional , but I feel like I'm relieving the pressure a bit before draining her out.


Step3: Get under the car armed with our 8mm socket wrench, and remove 6 or so bolts holding the 1st plastic piece in place. Then remove the 2nd plastic piece (there are two bolts very hard to find, close to the wheel wells). You will now see the Oil Drain Pan and the Oil Drain Plug.






Step4: Position your Oil Drain container and using the 13mm socket wrench, remove the Oil Drain Plug and let the oil pour out. Go have a snack / watch some TV and let her drip for an hour or so.

Step5:Remove the Oil Filter using the "special mercedes tool" and a 1/2 drive wrench. remove the old filter, clean the encasing and remove the rubber o-rings. Slide in the new filter, and put on the new O-rings provided. (3 in all)









Step6: Get back under the car, Put the Drain Plug bolt back on (don't forget the washer) and wipe the area clean (to check for leaks later)

Step7: Pour in about 5qts of new fully synthetic Mercedes-approved Oil. I used Pennzoil 5w-30, since I live in super-sunny yet not that hot California. You can use whatever you prefer, the last time some people had issues with not using mobil1 or not using 0w-40 etc. If you live on the east coast or where its really cold, you may want to use 0w-40. My car, my choice, same with yours.



Step8: Get back under the car and check for leaks. If everything looks good, put the two plastic pieces back on and drive off the Rhino Ramps. This is very important since you want the car totally level before pouring in more oil to avoid incorrect max readings.

Step9: Pour more oil and keep checking the oil dipstick to make sure you don't go over the max level indicator. I was able to get almost 8.5 qts in... about 8.3 or so I would guess.

Step10: Follow the Service reminder reset procedure and woohoo...you're done!

How to confirm which fluid is leaking?

Do you have a fluid leak under your car or truck? Here’s a simple way to be your own private investigator. If you’re not sure whether you are losing oil, transmission fluid, coolant or brake fluid, here is a simple, but effective method for finding who or what caused it!

Place an old sheet or large piece of white cardboard under the vehicle overnight. In the morning you will have your answer. Each fluid is a different color to help you diagnose the answers.

Brake fluid is light yellow.

red fluid is auto transmission fluid.------

Bright blue is windshield wiper fluid.

Clear fluid is power steering fluid.-------

Bright green is radiator coolant.-------

Light brown is manual transmission fluid.--------

How to Reset Windshield Wipers on Range Rover ?

If your Range Rover's wiper blades come to rest in an awkward place when you turn them off, such as in the middle of the windshield, then it is necessary to reset the home position. This problem can be caused by the blades getting knocked loose by an impact, or it can occur naturally over time. This task will only take a few minutes to complete using basic hand tools.

Things You'll Need

• Socket wren
• Remove the cowl panel, which is located in front of the windshield and covers the wiper mechanics. Raise and support the hood, exposing the bolts that secure the cowl panel. Remove each bolt using a socket wrench and set the cowl panel aside.
• Use a pair of pliers to depress and hold back the small spring clip that secures the wiper arm on the motor shaft. Gently pull the arm from the motor shaft.
• Turn the wiper blades on and allow the motor to make a full pass before turning them back off. The motor will automatically return to the proper park position. The blades will not move at this point since the arm has been disconnected.
• Manually position the wiper blades in the desired home position at the bottom of the windshield. Replace the wiper arm on the motor shaft by reversing the process used to remove it. Test the wipers to make sure they function properly. Replace the cowl panel and tighten each of the bolts inside the engine bay.

how to remove cd player from dash of 2005 Ford 500?

Most vehicles require that you first remove dashboard paneling in order to gain access to the stereo mounting dock. Once exposed, the head unit needs to be extracted from the vehicle's stereo mounting bracket. Ford has a different way of doing things. Removing the stereo in a 2005 Ford 500 and other ford models requires special tools called DIN removal keys. Use the keys to remove Ford (as well as Mazda) stereos in minutes.

Lift the hood of the Ford to disconnect the battery cable. The grounding cable should be disconnected from the battery before removing or installing any component connected to the vehicle's electrical system. Loosen the bolt that pinches the negative battery clamp to the negative battery lead post with a 10 mm socket wrench. Lift the cable from the battery terminal and rest it to the side of the battery.

Slide the prongs of the Ford DIN removal keys into the holes on either side of the stereo's face. Push each tool into its respective opening until it locks into place.

Pull outward on each key (right tool to the right, left tool to the left) while sliding the CD player from the Ford's dashboard stereo dock. Pull the unit far enough from the dash to access the wiring connections to the rear of the deck.

Squeeze the white plastic wire connectors to release the locking mechanism on each of the two connectors. Unplug the wiring connectors from the outlets on the back of the stock stereo.

Unplug the antenna cable from the outlet on the lower-right corner of the CD player's rear panel.

It's pretty easy. Most of the pieces you have to remove are held in by clips. First, remove the small rectangular trim piece around the shifter. Then pull the whole middle section out, including the cupholders (all one piece.) You will need to open the center console lid to do this. There are two 9/32" screws that will be exposed when you remove this piece that will allow you to then pop off the wood grain trim around the radio. (in my 2005, the climate controls are attached to the wood grain.) There are then four 9/32" screws holding the radio in place.

How to replace blend door actuator on ford expedition

This car has the actuator problem but the blend door and axle seem fine. This was a difficult repair for me. It was difficult because disassembling the interior was confusing. The actuator is located behind the lower instrument panel near the gas pedal. The lower instrument panel appears to be one piece which spans the width of the interior. I couldn't figure out how to remove it. With patience you can perform a sort of laproscopic surgery to get this actuator in and out. I'm a big guy. Getting in and out of the foot well is a challenge.

You're going to need:

- small mirror or two to see the actuator
- small socket set
- thin socket extensions to get behind the instrument panel
- band-aids, some of the edges of panels are sharp
- good pillow for your strained neck after you're done

One last thing...

Before you begin. Turn your HVAC control to either full cold or full hot. Remember which. You'll need to set the position of the new actuator before you insert it. You can't move the actuator manually.

Here's the interior before I started. I disassembled too much when I took the console apart. These pictures will show more disassembled than necessary.

Remove the rubber tray liner and unscrew the brass bolt. Don't bother with the plastic circle. There's nothing underneath it in this car.

Hear is the rear of the console in the back seat. I went too far and removed the cup holders. You can leave them in. The tab with the 2 vent holes is what you want to remove.

With the tab removed, unscrew the black bolt on each side of the console.

Again, I removed too much. You can leave the console door/arm rest on. I've detailed in red the part of the console which lifts up. This was confusing for me. I removed the 4 bolts in the bottom of the arm rest storage compartment. I then lifted the black plastic storage compartment liner up. The plastic liner is held in with 2 additional bolts which are under the area marked in red. THIS WAS THE WRONG THING TO DO. Just lift the area marked in red up. It's held in with 2 spring metal clips. I managed to break the post the springs attached to and made a mess of things. I glued everything I broke back together. (The damage was repairable. There are no rattles coming from the console, now reassembled.)

With the panel lifted you can see 4 smaller bolt heads and 2 larger one. You only need to remove the 3 bolts on the drivers side circled in red.

You will need to remove the bolt and 1 screw from black plastic storage compartment liner on the left as well. (You can see the broken remains of the liner still bolted in place.) It's been removed here, but you shouldn't need to remove yours. Note you will have to life up the black plastic storage compartment liner as you remove the side panel. There is a tab on the side of the liner. You can see the cutout in the picture. I've also noted the Side Panel Tab. This is just for reference. When you remove the side panel you need to lift up before you lift out.

Here's a close up look at the inside of the console. Notice the foam gasket pulled out of whack. It was this way when I opened it. I don't know if it came from the factory like this. I pulled it out, reset it, glued it back in place.

Here both side of the console are removed. You only need to remove the driver side panel. I hadn't figured everything out yet.

Here is a close-up of the driver side foot well with the panel removed. I removed the bolts circled in red. The metal bracket in the way and had to come out. The black plastic air duct was in the way too. Both parts removed easily.

Here is the source of all the trouble. This actuator is above and in front the metal bracket now removed. When you see how tight this is, you should you be impressed with my photograph. I just jammed my camera under there and started clicking. This is a great shot but it fails to show how difficult it is to get to those bolts with regular tools. This is where my patience and neck muscles were tested several times. 3 bolts hold the actuator in. You can see two here. There is one bolt on the opposite side, too.

You can reach the top left bolt on the actuator (the top most bolt in the picture above) through the gap circled in red. It's not easy, but it is possible.

You need to build a Frankendriver. I used every extension I could find to get my socket drive in there. I taped the bolt in to the socket when I was replacing it so it wouldn't fall as I was maneuvering through the holes.

The Frankendriver in action.

Here's where all the trouble comes from. Can you see the missing teeth on the small gear driving the large black gear? Two tiny teeth are missing. This is where the clicking sound comes from. I'm including my receipt for comparison purposes. This is the part I bought, a Dorman 604-202. It's not a perfect match. You'll see in the next photo the axle or pin or whatever you wan to call it doesn't match. I've heard the Ford part costs over $100. A reader in California reported the Ford part cost $73.00. (4-25-2010). It might be worth it. I didn't have the time to shop around or research this part so I made do with this one.

Old white actuator on left. New black actuator on right. Internals are different. More durable? Time will tell.

Pay close attention

You can see, in the picture below, the original equipment axle has 3 fins hanging off of it. I tried to simulate the fins with a piece of wire brad cut down and glued in. It would have worked except for another problem. I plugged both actuators in and set them to FULL COLD position. You can see the factory part turns 45 degrees left of center. The replacement part is squared off up and down. This is a big problem. I removed the wire pin. It doesn't work. I inserted the Dorman part. It does work and it does move the blend door. BUT, there is a lot of slop. To engage the heat you turn it to full hot. The air comes out luke warm. Turn the blower on HI and blend door snaps shut with a "thunk" and full heat comes on. You can then feather the heat down turning the knob towards cold. It's sloppy.

Why not transplant the axle? I thought of that. But they are both made from a slippery plastic which won't hold with glue. The threads and cogs just aren't compatible. I haven't given up. It's cold in Michigan now. My sister has her car back with heat. She's happy for now. Every time she turns on the heater she waits for the "thunk" and knows her car will warm up. She's happy with it for now.

We'll see what happens this spring. I may try this again and see if I can make it better. My advice for now is go to the dealer and buy the real part. Maybe it's been improved. Or maybe you can find a replacement gear and fix the part you have.

Good luck.